Exploring the world of leather
Behind the word leather lies an unsuspected diversity of textures, treatments, and finishes. Each type of leather has its own story and distinctive characteristics. To properly preserve and care for leather, it’s essential to understand its nature in order to choose the right products. The Saphir range offers a complete selection of care, enhancement, and repair products, meeting the specific needs of each type of leather.
However, some manufacturers — particularly at the entry level — conceal the poor quality of their hides by using only the generic designation leather or its simple symbol. These low-cost leathers often have a texture and appearance that make them closer to plastic than to genuine leather.
Understanding the Structure of Leather
The skin’s structure is made up of several distinct layers, typically classified into three main categories:
This is the upper part of the hide, the noblest and most resistant. It retains its natural grain with visible pores, a true sign of authenticity. It is undoubtedly the finest and highest-quality leather, as the hide must originally be free from major blemishes. Appreciated for its beauty, suppleness, and unique character, full-grain leather, when properly cared for with appropriate products, will retain its original appearance for many years.
This is the layer situated just beneath the full grain. Its surface is usually pigmented, pressed, or sanded to remove visible flaws (scars, insect bites, irregularities) and to achieve a more uniform grain. A more or less thick layer of coloured resin is then applied to standardise its appearance and make it more commercially viable. Although less prestigious than full-grain leather, lightly pigmented corrected-grain leather can still remain of good quality.
This is the lower part of the hide, obtained by splitting. To improve its appearance, it is often coated with resin or embossed to imitate the grain of leather. It is the least durable and lowest-quality leather, generally used for entry-level items, whether smooth leather or suede.
Tanning: A Key Transformation
Before it becomes leather, an animal hide must be tanned. Tanning is a chemical process that binds collagen fibres in the skin, transforming it into durable leather resistant to water, heat, and abrasion.
There are two main types of tanning:
Among the oldest techniques, used since Antiquity. It employs natural tannins found in wood, bark, roots, leaves, or fruits (oak, sumac, chestnut, acacia, etc.). The hide is immersed for several weeks, even months, in pits filled with these plant extracts. Thanks to ancestral recipes, this process produces durable leathers that may be supple or very firm, developing over time a distinctive scent and a unique patina.
Introduced in the 19th century, this method relies mainly on metal salts, such as chromium. Much faster (a few hours to a few days), it produces supple, durable leather with a smooth grain. Chrome-tanned leather can often be identified by a slightly bluish-grey edge. However, this process is less environmentally friendly due to its chemical components and their potential impact.
Different Types of Leather
Discover all the different types of leather to care for. From the most common to the rarer types, Saphir has the right product to care and maintain.
Smooth Leather
Smooth leather is the most common category. Its visible surface appears uniform — whether matte or glossy, soft or coarse. It includes various types such as calf, cowhide, horse, and cordovan. The term smooth refers to the appearance rather than the thickness or natural texture.
Aniline leather (or natural leather) is characterised by the absence of surface pigment: it may be dyed through using soluble aniline dyes.
Pigmented leather, by contrast, is sanded and covered with pigments and varnish to unify its appearance, conceal natural imperfections (like scars or irregular grain), and enhance durability — commonly used for sneakers.
Grained leather
Grained leather is said to have originated about 200 years ago in a Scottish tannery specialising in belts: a hide left on a floor of cement and pebbles allegedly picked up their texture.
Today, grains are replicated in a controlled manner. This treatment provides a texture appreciated for its ability to hide everyday scratches and scuffs.
All types of hides (calf, lamb, goat, cowhide...) can be grained, sometimes to mimic exotic leathers. Bison leather, however, features a naturally pronounced grain.
Box Calf
Box leather, also known as Box Calf, originated in the early 20th century and takes its name from Joseph Box, a renowned London shoemaker known for his high-quality craftsmanship.
It is a full-grain calfskin known for its finesse, suppleness, and timeless elegance. Unlike traditional vegetable-tanned leathers, Box Calf is chrome-tanned, specifically using chrome salts, which provide it with exceptional flexibility and longevity.
Its surface is generally smooth and shiny, although some Box leathers may display a very subtle grain. A distinctive detail often reveals it: the leather edge has a bluish-grey hue — a characteristic mark of chrome tanning.
Nappa leather
Nappa leather refers to smooth, full-grain leather that has not been sanded or corrected, offering a particularly soft feel and outstanding suppleness.
Primarily derived from calf, lamb, sheep, or goat hides, it is ideal for luxurious goods. Its main features are its softness and lightness.
To identify it easily, slightly moisten your index finger with saliva and press it firmly on the leather: if a water mark appears, it is probably Nappa leather.
Legend has it that this leather was discovered in 1875 by Emanuel Manasse, an employee of the Sawyer Tanning Company, founded in 1869 by F.A. Sawyer. Located in Napa Valley, California, the tannery lent its name to what is now known as Nappa leather.
Oiled Leather
Oiled leather can be either smooth or suede.
It is recognised by its robust, naturally patinated surface. Designed to withstand tough environments, it’s favoured by hikers, labourers, and everyday adventurers.
This leather is deeply nourished with fats — either plant-based or animal-derived — which penetrate its fibres to give it outstanding durability.
When scratched, its surface can often be restored simply by rubbing.
Oiled leather has a bold character: it evolves, marks, and develops a patina over time, telling the story of its wearer.
Suede Leathers: Nubuck and Split Suede
When talking about suede or suede leather, we generally refer to two categories: nubuck and split suede. These leathers are distinguished by their velvety texture, offering a soft and luxurious feel.
Split suede is derived from the underside of the hide — the flesh side — which is why it's sometimes called reverse leather.
Nubuck, of higher quality, is made from full-grain leather that has been lightly sanded to create its soft, velvet-like surface.
Patent Leather
Invented in 1818 in New Jersey by Seth Boyden, patent leather is admired for its glossy shine and ability to reflect light.
Its secret lies in the application of a varnish — a mix of oils and pigments — that seals and protects the surface.
One of its key advantages is its low-maintenance nature. However, if mishandled, it is prone to scratches and can crack over time.
Patent leather remains an elegant but delicate material, requiring care to preserve its original shine.
Exotic Leathers
A precious category, evoking rarity and prestige.
Crocodile, caiman, snake, lizard, ostrich, fish... These leathers come from rare species and are sought after for their unique textures and striking appearance.
Due to their high cost and scarcity, embossed or grained calf leather is often used to imitate their distinctive patterns.
Exotic leathers may have a smooth or suede finish, making them a category of their own — refined, technical, and rich in character.
Braided Leather
Braided leather dates back to antiquity (Egypt, Greece, Native American cultures).
Hand-braiding strips of cowhide or calfskin combines aesthetics with durability.
Italy excels in this craft, particularly with the house of Bottega Veneta and its iconic intrecciato weaving technique.
Vegan leather
Vegan leather is an alternative to animal leather. It can be made from synthetic or bio-based materials (plant-derived or organic waste).
The aim is to offer a more ethical — and sometimes more eco-friendly — option, although in practice, many vegan leathers are synthetic, with the term leather often retained for commercial appeal.
Vegan leather is therefore a solution to be assessed carefully, depending on its origin and manufacturing processes.
It should be remembered that, except for certain very specific leathers such as exotic skins, no animal is ever raised solely for its hide. Leather is in fact a by-product of the meat industry. If these hides were not transformed into leather, they would have to be incinerated or buried, which would result in a strongly negative ecological impact.
Moreover, the lifespan of a quality leather item, if properly maintained, far surpasses that of most other materials. Leather goods are also easily repairable. Conversely, many so-called vegan leathers do not offer the same longevity. Finally, genuine vegetable-tanned, uncorrected leather is 100% biodegradable.
Alcantara
Contrary to popular belief, Alcantara is not leather.
It is a registered trademark for a synthetic fabric designed to mimic the look and feel of suede.
Born in Japan and manufactured in Italy, its name — of Arabic origin — means the bridge.
Alcantara stands out for its soft touch, high durability, and elegant finish, making it a material of choice in the luxury automotive industry, particularly for car seats and interiors.
More affordable than natural leather, it combines style with technical performance, reinforcing its appeal across industries.
Leather is more than a material — it is a universe rich in craftsmanship, cultural heritage, and ancestral techniques.
At Saphir, we are proud to preserve and enhance this precious material, magnified by shoemakers, leatherworkers, and glovemakers. Our range of premium care products supports each type of leather so that your items retain, year after year, the brilliance and beauty that first captivated you.