An Interview with Victor Bastié, Founder of Malfroid

How Was Malfroid Born?

Malfroid was born from a passion for beautiful objects—those that stand the test of time and tell a story. From the very beginning, our ambition was never to seize a market opportunity or fill a gap. We wanted to create a house that reflected who we are and share a particular vision of quality.

Shoes became our first means of expression, but they are ultimately just a way of conveying something much broader: an appreciation for exceptional materials, fine craftsmanship, durability, and the pleasure of beautifully made objects.

Why Did You Choose to Revive the Malfroid Name?

We have always felt deeply connected to history and heritage. Reviving an old Parisian house was far more than a nostalgic gesture—it was a way of continuing a story that resonated with our own values.

The original Malfroid bootmaker embodied a certain standard of excellence, understated elegance, and quiet exclusivity that we continue to champion today. Bringing the house back to life also carried a genuine cultural dimension. We wanted to preserve this legacy while giving it a new expression.

Where Does Your Appreciation for Fine Shoes Come From?

It comes first and foremost from my upbringing. I grew up in an environment where I was taught to buy less, but buy better—to care for what you own rather than replacing it at the first opportunity.

Whether it's a pair of shoes, a watch, or a car, a beautiful object is designed to last, evolve, and be passed on. It develops a patina over time, gains character, and tells its own story. That philosophy lies at the heart of Malfroid.

Even today, we explain to our clients that a pair of quality shoes should be seen as an investment rather than an expense. While the initial cost is higher, proper care and resoling allow them to accompany their owner for many years.

This philosophy may seem traditional, but in many ways it is remarkably contemporary. At a time when so many products are manufactured on the other side of the world only to be quickly replaced, we advocate a more responsible, more sustainable approach to consumption—one that respects craftsmanship.

Do You See a Return to This Way of Consuming?

Yes, although the movement is still relatively discreet. It is especially noticeable in major cities and, perhaps surprisingly, among a younger clientele than one might expect.

We are regularly struck by the number of young customers who come to Malfroid precisely because they want to consume differently. They are looking for products made in Europe, crafted from exceptional leathers, and built to last.

This is not about setting shoes against sneakers—I wear sneakers myself—but about reminding people that there is another way to consume. Choosing a product made locally, from high-quality materials, with longevity in mind, has never felt more relevant.

Where Do You Find Your Inspiration?

When you're truly passionate, creating becomes almost second nature.

Every model is the result of years of observation. When I design a loafer, I never begin with a blank sheet of paper. Instead, I think back to all the loafers I've seen, worn, or admired. I retain certain details, discard others, and gradually shape a synthesis that feels true to us.

We also pay close attention to what our clients are looking for. The expansion of our loafer collection, for example, reflects growing demand. Our role is to interpret these evolving expectations without ever losing sight of our identity.

How Would You Define the Malfroid Style?

Our identity is unmistakably French. Our international clients often tell us they immediately recognize a distinctly Parisian elegance in our collections. That is part of our DNA, and it has been from the very beginning.

The Malfroid style is a balance of several influences. We appreciate American ease, English robustness, and, to a certain extent, Italian refinement. French style, to us, lies precisely in bringing these inspirations together with restraint and balance.

We pay meticulous attention to proportions: the shape of the last, the height of the heel, the balance of the sole, the opening of the shoe, and its overall lines. Nothing is left to chance.

Our ambition is to offer understated luxury. No ostentation, no unnecessary eccentricity—only the pursuit of balance and authenticity.

I have a very simple belief: a good shoe should look just as natural with a tailored suit as it does with jeans and a T-shirt. When a model possesses that kind of versatility, you know you've got it right.

How Do You Select Your Leathers?

More often than not, we begin by imagining the shoe itself, then look for the leather that will best bring it to life. Occasionally, however, the process works the other way around. That was the case with our signature model, the Defender.

We discovered an exceptional waxed suede developed by the renowned English tannery Charles F. Stead, offering remarkable resistance to moisture. Its texture and character immediately inspired us. The Defender was designed around that leather.

That is the exception rather than the rule. Normally, we first define the colours, intended use, and technical characteristics we are looking for before selecting the finest leathers from French, English, Italian, and Portuguese tanneries.

Every tannery has its own identity. Our role is to choose the one best suited to the shoe we have imagined. Beautiful leather is not simply about appearance—it must stand the test of time, develop a natural patina, and accompany its owner for years to come.

Is There One Model That Best Embodies the Spirit of Malfroid?

We are genuinely attached to every model we create. In fact, we have always preferred to discontinue a style rather than keep a shoe that no longer excited us. If a model remains in our collection today, it is because we continue to stand behind it wholeheartedly.

Clients often ask us which model is our best-seller, but the answer is never straightforward. Every family has its icon—the Double Monk, the Newport among our loafers... If we had to choose just one, however, it would undoubtedly be the Defender.

It perfectly encapsulates our philosophy. It is a Norwegian-welted derby built on a generous last, fitted with a commando sole, and crafted from an oil-tanned leather in a distinctive sage shade that has become synonymous with the house.

What makes it so successful is its balance. It has a strong personality while remaining remarkably easy to wear. Some reserve it for weekends or the countryside, while others pair it with business attire. That versatility is exactly what we strive for.

I also enjoy seeing how it evolves over time. The soles can be replaced as the years go by, but the leather itself is made to last a lifetime. Every pair develops a unique patina. When customers return several years later wearing their Defenders, no two pairs look alike. To me, that is the ultimate proof that a fine shoe becomes truly personal with time.

Was the Workshop Part of the Original Malfroid Vision?

Absolutely. From the very beginning, we believed that a house built around quality could not simply sell shoes. A fine pair should be cared for, repaired, resoled, and supported throughout its entire life. Shoe repair has therefore always been an integral part of our vision.

Over time, this activity has become increasingly important, particularly since opening our space at Le Bon Marché. Today, it has become one of the pillars of Malfroid.

Beyond our own creations, we also welcome shoes from every maker. Many clients entrust us with their finest pairs because they know we apply the same exacting standards to their care as we do to crafting our own shoes.

That after-sales relationship is essential. It creates lasting trust with our clients and naturally extends our philosophy: preserving beautiful objects rather than replacing them.

Were Accessories Part of the Project from the Beginning?

Yes, naturally. Although footwear remains at the heart of what we do, we have always wanted to build a coherent world around the brand.

Our belts, for example, are produced by a family-run workshop near Toulouse with whom we share the same standards. We favour premium leathers, solid brass buckles, and impeccable finishing. Nothing is left to chance.

The same philosophy guides our card holders, our collaborations, and every accessory we develop. If a product bears the Malfroid name, it is because it meets exactly the same standards as our shoes.

Our belts also offer a wonderful introduction to the house. They allow customers to discover our craftsmanship through a timeless piece—often chosen as a gift—while reflecting everything that defines us: exceptional materials, balanced proportions, and craftsmanship designed to endure.

You Also Offer a Patina Service. What Is Your Approach to Personalisation?

Our approach is rather distinctive. In many ways, we create patinas for people who believe they don't like patinas.

For us, a patina is not about transforming a shoe with dramatic colours. It should enhance the leather's natural ageing process and reveal its depth.

We work primarily with understated shades: rich browns, midnight blues, greys, and other subtle tones. The aim is never to draw attention, but rather to add richness, depth, and character.

We always begin with a conversation, working closely with each client to create a patina that reflects their personality and becomes a natural part of the shoe's life.

Why Did You Choose Saphir as a Partner?

Choosing Saphir came naturally. From the outset, we have wanted to offer the very best products at every stage of a shoe's life—including its care. It is also the range we use every day in our workshop.

Exceptional leather deserves exceptional care. Saphir's creams, waxes, and lotions respect the unique characteristics of each tannery's leather while helping it develop a beautiful natural patina over time.

Proper care is an integral part of our philosophy. A well-maintained shoe is a shoe that lasts.

What Are the Next Challenges for Malfroid?

The past two years have been particularly exciting. We opened a new boutique in Lille and relocated our Paris address to Rue du Bac. Both developments represent important milestones in the house's journey.

Our priority now is to consolidate that growth. We are investing heavily in our digital presence while carefully developing a network of selected retail partners who share our vision and our standards.

We prefer to grow steadily, never compromising the principles that define Malfroid: exceptional products, close relationships with our clients, and a house built to last.